The kindness of (Italian) strangers
January 3, 2009
Ristorante Miramare, with a to-die-for patio that hugs the Mediterranean coast, became my culinary refuge during a day trip to Ventimiglia, Italy!
My French speaking skills pretty much suck, so rather than feeling like the village idiot, I decided to take the 40-minute train from charming Villefranche to Ventimiglia, the first town over the border in Italy. While I won’t be winning any prizes for my knowledge of Italian, I sound like a genius in italiano compared to the moron I sound like in français (multiple classes notwithstanding). So off I went to the train station, armed with my Berlitz Italian Phrase Book & Dictionary just in case all my questi and quelli got stuck in translation.
A palm tree-dominated glimpse down the Ventimiglia promenade.
Ahhh… what a delight to stroll into a city where things felt familiar! Granted, I’d never been to Ventimiglia, but how thrilling to see signs for a salumeria and a gelateria – and actually be able to intelligently ask for my purchase! And, of course, my Italian brothers never let me down… they’re always good for an admiring glance or two and a couple whistles for a single signorina! (I made sure to change into my “cute shoes” before I boarded the train for Italy – I know those so-called little things make a big difference in bella Italia.)
When I got off the train, I was starving… and I’ve spent enough time in Europe to know that you’ve got to time lunch right. Most (decent) restaurants close some time between 2:30 and 7:30 pm, giving employees time off between shifts. But thanks to the late-running French train, it was nearly 3 pm when I arrived. I stumbled from place to place, every one closed and offering (at best) some limp slice of old-looking pizza. A signorina advised me to check out places on the sea, as they might still be serving. And although the kindly old man at the door of Ristorante Miramare said the kitchen was closed, my pleading in Italian won me sympathy from the cute young man at the cash register. He convinced the kitchen to prepare a pasta dish for me, one I devoured while drinking fizzy young vino rosso – and one of the most gorgeous seaside views anywhere. I swear, the kindness of strangers!
As I was leaving, the young man, Emanuele, asked me to take his phone number and call him next time I’m in Ventimiglia so we could meet for a drink. I’m sure I’m old enough to be his mother and probably would have given the poor ragazzo a heart attack if I’d told him my real age. But it’s still flattering. Maybe I should become a straight-up “cougar” while I’m on this 40th birthday trip. Only my pediatrician and I need to know how old I REALLY am!
Filed under: Celebrating the big 4-0 in France
21 Comments Leave a Comment
1.
Lisa Lenoir | January 7, 2009 at 10:03 am
Maureen: Love the blog! I am glad you got lunchtime right. I could never get it right in Italy and found myself eating tea sandwiches all the time during the off hours.
Definitely, now know the secret to being slim in Europe!
2.
Sharon | January 27, 2009 at 10:23 pm
I say Emanuele has excellent taste in le donne! What a fabulous birthday present for you.
3.
Walter | January 27, 2009 at 10:54 pm
Great piece on your magical 40th.
Your my favorite 40 year-old Black Cougar!!!!
Tanti auguri,
W
4.
urbantravelgirl | January 27, 2009 at 11:28 pm
I love it… a “Black Cougar!” Now, if I can just learn how to say that in Italian and French, I’ll be on the prowl for sure!
5.
This Time Now | May 8, 2010 at 3:54 am
I know that I’m in Seoul, but I dream of returning to visit (or work and live?) in Italy. I love that place more than I love Paris and that’s really saying something. My friends know that I consider Paris my true home, but Italy, I just can’t put it into words. Umbria and Tuscany, stole my heart. I was invited to breakfast, lunch and dinner with the kindest of strangers (men, of course, lol!), smiled at by lovely grandmothers tending their gardens. Will be in Sweden visiting a friend this summer, but I do hope to hop south even for a couple of days in Italy. It would be well worth it! Lord, knows I need to flirt with an Italian man!
6.
urbantravelgirl | May 8, 2010 at 8:08 am
Ciao, bella Felicia! Si, Italy also holds a super-special place in my heart, since I called Florence home for a too-short seven months. But there’s something about Italy and its people (and OF COURSE its men)… but folks there are some of the warmest I’ve ever met, language barrier notwithstanding.
One of my girlfriends and I are dreaming about buying places in the non-touristy region of Abruzzo, where real estate is still cheap. I told her we’d instantly be adopted by some lovely older Italian people who wouldn’t want the American signorinas to be by themselves. I’ve never even been there, but I know Italians and know that’s just how they are.
Yes, girl get yourself back to Italy this summer, whatever you do. And flirt with some cute ragazzi (young men) for me, too!!!
Arrivederci,
Maureen
7.
This Time Now | May 9, 2010 at 2:05 am
You are so fortunate to have had that experience!
I first came to Italy via a lovely invitation from my Italian-professor friend from my university. This man and I are still close friends till this day and I will never forget when I arrived in Perugia to see a familiar Italian smile, he was the perfect host! Perugia is pure magic. I took trips to Florence, Assisi and Siena. Love that place! Abruzzo? I’ve only heard great things about the place, also, I’d like to see Puglia and of course Sicily. I’m on an Italian high thanks to you!
Ciao Bella!
Felicia
8.
urbantravelgirl | May 9, 2010 at 8:09 am
I’ve never been to Perugia, but would LOVE to get there. Florence and Tuscany, as you know, are wonderful. Also high on my list in Puglia, because I want to visit a less-touristy part of the country and be forced to speak my broken Italian rather than falling back on English. It’s the only real way to learn a language — except ANY Italian man will tell you the best way to learn is to have an Italian boyfriend! LOL
I finally made it to Sicily a couple years ago! My mom and I were on a Mediterranean cruise in November that because of bad weather couldn’t stop on this Greek island. And I was THRILLED when they said instead we’d stop at the port of Messina in Italy!! I absolutely fell in love with the town of Taormina, which is way up in the hills. I’m determined to make it back there for a REAL vacation some time. Maybe we’ll run into each other there — how hysterical would that be! (And of course, the Sicilian men are most friendly.)
Stay on that Italian high, girl!! Now I’m ready to book a ticket and get back there ASAP!
Ciao for now,
Maureen
9.
This Time Now | May 9, 2010 at 4:38 pm
I think that we’re both going to be in Italy this year. When I have something on the brain, oh I make it happen and I think that you’re like that too.
La Dolce Vita!
Felicia
10.
urbantravelgirl | May 9, 2010 at 4:44 pm
I most CERTAINLY am the same way! Don’t know how or when I’m going to get to bella Italia, but a trip is definitely in order.
La Dolce Vita, indeed!!
Marina (my Italian name)
11.
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12.
urbantravelgirl | May 21, 2010 at 2:06 pm
Hey, Bets Sports — thanks! Drop by anytime!
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