How do I love thee, Buenos Aires? Let me count the ways….

by

Ahhh... finally relaxed! Here I am in Buenos Aires, sitting outside an historic cafe on the bustling Avenida Santa Fe.
Ahhh... finally relaxed! Here I am, sitting outside an historic cafe on the bustling Avenida Santa Fe.
Portenos, as Buenos Aires residents are called, have mastered the civilized art of the chill-out. Here's a look outside Freddo, a popular gelateria in the hip and gentrified Puerto Madero barrio, which runs along the river.
Portenos, as Buenos Aires residents are called, have mastered the civilized art of the chill-out. Here's a look outside Freddo, a popular gelateria in the hip and gentrified Puerto Madero barrio, which runs along the river. Converted lofts house restaurants, bars and offices in this district.
Here's a view down Avenida Coronel Diaz, which separates the super-chic Recoleta and trendy Palermo districts. Check out the architecture. Doesn't it look like a boulevard in Paris?
Here's a view down Avenida Coronel Diaz, which separates the super-chic Recoleta and trendy Palermo districts. Check out the architecture. Doesn't it look like a boulevard in Paris?

I’m in love—and it has nothing to do with a man.

You know how you feel when you’re in the early throes of a new romance? All you want to do is think about that gorgeous guy, how great he smelled, what he said, when you’ll see him again. And you want to TALK about it. All the time, to anyone who will listen.

Well, that’s how I feel about Buenos Aires, the charming and seductive Argentine city where I spent the better part of the past two weeks. In theory, a city can’t hug you back—but this one sure felt like it did. As you UrbanTravelGirls know, I’m a huge Paris lover—but I am SO ready to cheat with BA. Even when folks ask me, “What did you like so much about it?”, I find it hard to put into words. Some places just seem to embrace you, to make you feel like you’ve come home to somewhere you never knew you left.

I’m one of those people who is NEVER more comfortable than when she’s out of her element. I don’t tend to seek out trips that will take me to places where folks look just like me, or talk like me—or even THINK like me. I travel in search of differences, which I heartily embrace. For me, the joy of international travel comes from its challenges, from stretching boundaries and testing my comfort zones.

Rather than signing up for one-stop-shop travel packages that would provide my every need, I instead chose to rent a one-bedroom apartment smack in the middle of Buenos Aires’ Palermo barrio – one of the city’s trendiest and most convenient. Rather than being able to dial up hotel room service, I was forced to use my often-broken Spanish at the supermercado and the corner fiamberia (sandwich shop), which also sold incredible cheeses, chorizos and jamón Serrano, a melt-in-your-mouth cured ham. Instead of spending lovely spring days hanging out at the rooftop swimming pool of my apartment building, I took to the streets, wandering around on foot and seeing what there was to see.

But I did it—and Buenos Aires rewarded me with an incredible two weeks. I’ll obviously be sharing more about my South American getaway (which also included short stays in Santiago, Chile, and Colonia, Uruguay) in later posts, but for now, a few of the things I loved most about BA:

  • The city never seems to sleep—and neither do I! Just like their Spanish cousins across the sea, the porteños—as Buenos Aires residents are called—love to stay out late. Eating, dancing, talking, hanging out. It all happens WAY after dark. Go to a restaurant before 10 and unless it’s in a hotel, there probably won’t be many, if any, locals there. As many of you know, I keep vampire hours even when I’m at home, so napping and going out for a late dinner or drink was JUST what the doctor ordered.
  • It’s a carnivore paradise. I don’t know how vegetarians and vegans make it in a place like BA. But Argentina itself probably has more cows than people—hence, its well-deserved fame on the leather and beef front. And not only are there steaks on nearly every menu and parillas, or traditional Argentine steakhouses, on nearly every corner, it’s DELICIOUS. And for Americans, it’s embarrassingly inexpensive. Even at a well-known, top-notch BA steak joint, you MIGHT pay the equivalent of $10.50 for an incredibly tender and high-quality piece of meat. One thing’s for sure. Eating like this—accompanied by one of Argentina’s amazing and equally affordable Malbecs or Cabernet—can become a cherished habit REAL quick!
  • Parisian feel, Italian vibe, Latin lifestyle. BA’s often called the “Paris of South America,” and it’s easy to see why. Its architecture—especially in the poshest districts—looks like a replica of what you see on Parisian boulevards. Because many of its residents have Italian roots and surnames, there’s definitely that la dolce vita “sweet life” vibe in the air. And because these folks ARE Latin, that wonderfully laid-back attitude tends to permeate everything. Even business meetings feel far more relaxed than they do in the States—and even a work lunch likely will be enjoyed with a glass of vino tinto. No wonder I’m hooked!
  • Sisters are like superstars. OK, let’s be real: It’s pretty near IMPOSSIBLE not to adore a place where the men are showing you much love, all day long. Black folks in general are quite rare in most parts of Argentina—and black women even more so. So when you’re walking down the street, in a restaurant, in a supermercado—people look. And these gorgeous, dark -haired Latin men appreciate you in all your mocha-skinned glory. Before leaving for Argentina, I traded e-mails with Jennifer Poe, a 20-something sister who moved herself to Buenos Aires a few years ago and had the time of her life! She wrote about her experience—and interactions with porteño guys—in her engaging, fun-to-read blog, Hola Morocha!!!!! A black girl’s guide to Buenos Aires. (Can’t WAIT to read the book Jen’s writing based on her blog and her time in South America!) She told me that “hands down” the most exhilarating thing about being a black woman in BA “was the love and attention from men. I felt like a princess or queen! Like a rare diamond that everyone was after!” Alright, chicas—when was the last time you felt like THAT?

So tell me—have any of you UrbanTravelGirls made your way to BA? And what was your experience like? Do share!