How do I love thee, Buenos Aires? Let me count the ways….
November 23, 2010
Ahhh... finally relaxed! Here I am, sitting outside an historic cafe on the bustling Avenida Santa Fe.
Portenos, as Buenos Aires residents are called, have mastered the civilized art of the chill-out. Here's a look outside Freddo, a popular gelateria in the hip and gentrified Puerto Madero barrio, which runs along the river. Converted lofts house restaurants, bars and offices in this district.
Here's a view down Avenida Coronel Diaz, which separates the super-chic Recoleta and trendy Palermo districts. Check out the architecture. Doesn't it look like a boulevard in Paris?
I’m in love—and it has nothing to do with a man.
You know how you feel when you’re in the early throes of a new romance? All you want to do is think about that gorgeous guy, how great he smelled, what he said, when you’ll see him again. And you want to TALK about it. All the time, to anyone who will listen.
Well, that’s how I feel about Buenos Aires, the charming and seductive Argentine city where I spent the better part of the past two weeks. In theory, a city can’t hug you back—but this one sure felt like it did. As you UrbanTravelGirls know, I’m a huge Paris lover—but I am SO ready to cheat with BA. Even when folks ask me, “What did you like so much about it?”, I find it hard to put into words. Some places just seem to embrace you, to make you feel like you’ve come home to somewhere you never knew you left.
I’m one of those people who is NEVER more comfortable than when she’s out of her element. I don’t tend to seek out trips that will take me to places where folks look just like me, or talk like me—or even THINK like me. I travel in search of differences, which I heartily embrace. For me, the joy of international travel comes from its challenges, from stretching boundaries and testing my comfort zones.
Rather than signing up for one-stop-shop travel packages that would provide my every need, I instead chose to rent a one-bedroom apartment smack in the middle of Buenos Aires’ Palermo barrio – one of the city’s trendiest and most convenient. Rather than being able to dial up hotel room service, I was forced to use my often-broken Spanish at the supermercado and the corner fiamberia (sandwich shop), which also sold incredible cheeses, chorizos and jamón Serrano, a melt-in-your-mouth cured ham. Instead of spending lovely spring days hanging out at the rooftop swimming pool of my apartment building, I took to the streets, wandering around on foot and seeing what there was to see.
But I did it—and Buenos Aires rewarded me with an incredible two weeks. I’ll obviously be sharing more about my South American getaway (which also included short stays in Santiago, Chile, and Colonia, Uruguay) in later posts, but for now, a few of the things I loved most about BA:
- The city never seems to sleep—and neither do I! Just like their Spanish cousins across the sea, the porteños—as Buenos Aires residents are called—love to stay out late. Eating, dancing, talking, hanging out. It all happens WAY after dark. Go to a restaurant before 10 and unless it’s in a hotel, there probably won’t be many, if any, locals there. As many of you know, I keep vampire hours even when I’m at home, so napping and going out for a late dinner or drink was JUST what the doctor ordered.
- It’s a carnivore paradise. I don’t know how vegetarians and vegans make it in a place like BA. But Argentina itself probably has more cows than people—hence, its well-deserved fame on the leather and beef front. And not only are there steaks on nearly every menu and parillas, or traditional Argentine steakhouses, on nearly every corner, it’s DELICIOUS. And for Americans, it’s embarrassingly inexpensive. Even at a well-known, top-notch BA steak joint, you MIGHT pay the equivalent of $10.50 for an incredibly tender and high-quality piece of meat. One thing’s for sure. Eating like this—accompanied by one of Argentina’s amazing and equally affordable Malbecs or Cabernet—can become a cherished habit REAL quick!
- Parisian feel, Italian vibe, Latin lifestyle. BA’s often called the “Paris of South America,” and it’s easy to see why. Its architecture—especially in the poshest districts—looks like a replica of what you see on Parisian boulevards. Because many of its residents have Italian roots and surnames, there’s definitely that la dolce vita “sweet life” vibe in the air. And because these folks ARE Latin, that wonderfully laid-back attitude tends to permeate everything. Even business meetings feel far more relaxed than they do in the States—and even a work lunch likely will be enjoyed with a glass of vino tinto. No wonder I’m hooked!
- Sisters are like superstars. OK, let’s be real: It’s pretty near IMPOSSIBLE not to adore a place where the men are showing you much love, all day long. Black folks in general are quite rare in most parts of Argentina—and black women even more so. So when you’re walking down the street, in a restaurant, in a supermercado—people look. And these gorgeous, dark -haired Latin men appreciate you in all your mocha-skinned glory. Before leaving for Argentina, I traded e-mails with Jennifer Poe, a 20-something sister who moved herself to Buenos Aires a few years ago and had the time of her life! She wrote about her experience—and interactions with porteño guys—in her engaging, fun-to-read blog, Hola Morocha!!!!! A black girl’s guide to Buenos Aires. (Can’t WAIT to read the book Jen’s writing based on her blog and her time in South America!) She told me that “hands down” the most exhilarating thing about being a black woman in BA “was the love and attention from men. I felt like a princess or queen! Like a rare diamond that everyone was after!” Alright, chicas—when was the last time you felt like THAT?
So tell me—have any of you UrbanTravelGirls made your way to BA? And what was your experience like? Do share!
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22 Comments Leave a Comment
1.
Sandi | November 23, 2010 at 1:08 pm
Thank you for this blog! As a black woman who loves to travel internationally, you have now put Buenos Aires on my list. I too love Paris and think of it as my home in Europe when I am there. Now, I can’t wait to travel to Buenos Aires.
Can’t wait to hear more!
2.
Kelly | November 23, 2010 at 1:11 pm
Hola chica!
So you’re back? I wondered if you would return, knowing you were in your true element. Delighted to read about your experience.
As if BA wasn’t already at the top of my places to go next, it solidified its ranking. Malbec and delicious affordable steak paired with Latin men who adore US equals a guaranteed good time!
I love that you rented an apartment again! It was because of you doing that in the south of France that I followed your footsteps and did the same during my last trip abroad.
Hopefully my next trip will be to do the same in BA!
I can’t wait to read more of your South American adventures.
3.
gina | November 23, 2010 at 1:28 pm
BA is next on my list, but after reading this post I want to book my flight ASAP! Hopefully you’ll be there when I go
4.
Jean | November 23, 2010 at 10:25 pm
Of course, you know that you’re my hero. Someday, I’ll be as brave as you are. I still haven’t gotten that passport. But I’m sooooo ready for men to adore me and a place to enchant me! Thanks for sharing. I was wondering how it went. Glad it went so well!
5.
roni clark | November 24, 2010 at 1:00 am
I was just in Buenos Aires in January and had a ball. Check out my blog if you want for some great places to check out, I wrote about my trip everyday. Make sure you get a leather jacket custom made, mine is FAB. I also rented an apartment, such a better way to travel than in a hotel. Such a great city!!!
6.
This Time Now | November 24, 2010 at 6:44 pm
Well, well, well. So glad to see you back in cyberspace. It’s been a while, but I see that you’ve been spending your time wisely and fabulously! Good for you! Buenos Aires is one of the cities that I long to visit. I hope more posts are coming.
Ciao Bella!
7.
Cheryl | November 28, 2010 at 1:59 am
I would definitely be interested in BA . . . it would be nice to travel with a few other Urban Girls.
How easy/hard would it be to plan something for next summer, say July/August?
8.
UrbanTravelGirl | November 28, 2010 at 8:33 pm
Hola, chicas!! Thanks for all the comments. Yes, I’ve been VERY bad about posting lately, but I promise to try and do better. Of course, I’d LOVE to say I’ve got another trip to Buenos Aires planned, but at least I DID call American Airlines this evening to inquire about flights. LOL!!
Glad you ladies want to read more about my time in BA — and in Argentina. I’ll definitely share more about my thoughts and impressions of the city, the country — and of course, about being a sistagirl down in the Southern Hemisphere.
Roni, thanks for telling me about your recent trip to BA! I will be checking out your blog ASAP!
Hasta luego,
Maureen (who plans to change her name to “Marina” if/when she wins the lottery and moves to BA!)
9.
UrbanTravelGirl | November 28, 2010 at 8:36 pm
Hola, Cheryl!
So, are you volunteering to plan a travel-to-Buenos Aires trip for UrbanTravelGirl readers?
Believe you me, it’s something I’d love to do someday — and very well might!
You asked about going in July or August 2011. One thing to remember is that Argentina’s seasons are the direct opposite of those in the States: if it’s summer here, it’s winter there. I’ve only been to BA twice, and it’s been late spring/early summer (meaning the city is alive and everybody’s outside). I’d love to know how that changes when the weather is cool…. But if you want to experience BA at it’s best, I’d recommend going in late spring/summer to really see the city come alive. Just my two cents!
Maureen
10.
Carolyn van Es | November 30, 2010 at 11:10 am
Never had any desire to go to Buenos Aires, especially after my graduate studies when my non-argentinian latino buddies explained that portenos were known as the arrogant ones. But, after reading your posts, I’m going to have to rethink that. Should I leave the Dutchman at home? LMAO.
11.
UrbanTravelGirl | December 3, 2010 at 6:18 am
Carolyn, you’re funny! Don’t leave the Dutchman at home — I’m sure you guys would have a ball. (That still won’t keep the Argentine men’s heads from swiveling when you walk past, I’m sure!)
I didn’t find the BA portenos any more arrogant than anyone else… but then again, I love Parisians and French people (who many people deem snobs), so what do I know?
Maureen
12.
M. Antoinette Walker | December 6, 2010 at 1:43 pm
Hola Chica!
Oh, it sounds like your allowed the Argentines to wrap you with their warmth – feels soooo good.
Though I spent zero time in BA. I experienced a similar feeling while in San Nicolas (3 hours drive north). It was especially nice feeling the warmth since it was winter when I was there.
You’re definately confirming what I already knew – I MUST RETURN!
Buenos Tardes Senorita.
13.
Emma | December 21, 2010 at 8:49 am
What a fantastic recap – makes me want to pick up and go tomorrow! Great idea to rent the apartment instead of a hotel. Thanks for sharing!
14.
urbantravelgirl | December 21, 2010 at 11:11 am
Hola, Emma!! I think we BOTH want to pick up and go manana, don’t we??
I’m a HUGE proponent of apartments vs. hotels if you’re going to be in a place for a week or longer. Not only is even a LUXURY apartment much less expensive than a decent or nice hotel, but you’ll find that you feel much more part of the local fabric and culture if you’e grocery shopping, stopping into the same cafe each day, letting people in the area see you and get to know you. It’s made my international travel experiences SO much richer!
Buenos viajes,
Maureen
15.
IAN | December 22, 2010 at 4:40 pm
I am a frequent traveller to Latin America and I often advise friends to avoid Buenos Aires. My advice to travelers in Buenos Aires is to dress down and take safe taxis while avoiding walking if possible unless it is in a very upscale part. I personally choose to carry a knife and a collapsable truncheon whenever I do have to walk there. I’ve lost track of how many street crimes I have witnessed. Aside from cheap leather goods, there is little of interest in this city as it is an impoverished graffiti filled shabby imitation of a European city. If Buenos Aires were a woman then she would be one of those typical middle aged Argentines with the cheap peroxide blonde hair, she is desperately trying to look young and European while fooling no one. Buenos Aires offers nothing you can’t find elsewhere. If observing and studying street crime is your hobby then is is a great destination.
16.
Molly | January 29, 2011 at 12:08 pm
Interesting – to see that you liked BA so very much… I’ve heard how much the Portenos STARED at and look down on non-white others… mostly out of ‘curiosity’ as they have a populatio of practically 0 obvious Blacks in BA… but perhaps that fact is greatly exaggerated… I did like it when I was there, but then again, I stuck to mostly touristy areas… once you venture too much off the tourtisty path, it may be a different experience… and only had 1 perso STARE at me as though he was surprised to see an alien from Mars in the car next to his en route to the airport…
P.S. Check out this blog: http://expat-argentina.blogspot.com/2005/04/blacks-in-buenos-aires.html AND http://expat-argentina.blogspot.com/2008/04/2008-update-to-blacks-in-buenos-aires.html
17.
urbantravelgirl | January 31, 2011 at 8:06 am
Hola, Molly — and thanks for your comment! I’ve only been to Buenos Aires twice (and during this most recent trip also went to Mendoza), but had great experiences each time. Yes, I got PLENTY of looks and stares — but these seemed to me much more stares of curiosity, as you do NOT see many black folks in Argentina in general. But those of you UrbanTravelGirls who’ve visited Eastern Europe or other places where black folks are rareties can report the same thing.
Still, just because people STARE doesn’t mean they’re racist. While staring is considered terribly rude in the States, it doesn’t carry that same connotation everywhere in the world. I prefer to think of it as people being curious or interested rather than straight-up bigots. And if they are, you’ll figure it out, even if you don’t speak the language. Hate translates quite easily, as does kindness. So rather than going places EXPECTING the worst, I expect to be received and treated well anywhere I go, and that’s been the case 99% of the time.
Happy Travels,
Maureen
18.
Tay | March 6, 2011 at 4:54 pm
Great blog. So happy you love BA as I do. Can hardly wait to go back next year . . . 16 years and counting for me. Oh, that one comment from IAN (comment 15), is so incredibly derogatory and false. Obviously it comes from someone who has never visited this intoxicating city. Has he/she ever been to Buenos Aires, then that comment would prove to be absolutely false. On the other hand, maybe IAN has been there and simply suffers from unrequited love either from another human being or from the city herself, who just did not embrace him/her like it does most people who fall in love with her. It happens I guess . . . for some folks. LOVE BUENOS AIRES !!!
19.
urbantravelgirl | March 6, 2011 at 9:32 pm
Hola, Tay — and thanks for visiting UrbanTravelGirl! Thrilled to hear you’re also a fan of Buenos Aires, which as you know I love dearly!!! And you’re right — IAN does have a different point of view, doesn’t he? Fortunately, it’s not the BA either of us has experienced, but everyone is entitled to his own opinion. Here’s hoping/wishing those folks who DO get to BA meet the city you and I have come to love!
Happy Travels,
Maureen
20.
Choroba Parkinsona | March 8, 2011 at 1:31 pm
Very interesting entry, I look forward to the next!
21.
SG | March 30, 2011 at 5:12 pm
Buenos Aires… I have no idea what took me so darn long to get down there!
I had the pleasure of arranging a South American visit in November of 2009: Argentia, Brazil and Chile. From friends, I heard that Buenos Aires was the Paris of South America but they did not accurately describe how the city is really 3 countries in one. The architecture and wide streets make you feel as if you’re in Paris or Barcelona, the attitude (especially the men) and driving makes one feels as if they’re in Rome, then there’s something very uniquely Latin, ala the Goucho culture. Outside of Paris, I have never found such an enthralling city.
Paris is also my favorite city but Buenos Aires runs a close second. Truth be told, since I hail from Los Angeles, the food in Buenos Aires really sent my taste buds into a tizzy – they take food very seriously here and everything is excellent: the meat, wine, cheese, pastries, sweets, it’s just an explosion and I’m SHOCKED, literally SHOCKED, that Buenos Aires is not known for their food. If you’re looking for a culinary wonder that is accessiable and AFFORDABLE, look no further than Buenos Aires.
Now, another hidden gem of Buenos Aires is their shopping. If you want buttery leather goods, this is the place to buy theme. A hobo bag which would easily go for $400 in the States cost me only $108 dollars. My husband found some of the best clothing for men, extremely well crafted jeans for $30. Why so cheap you ask? Argentina is probably one of the last countries where the dollar makes you rich. At the time I went, it was 3.50 peso to the dollar, now it’s close to 4.00 peso. So, while the ticket may be expensive, although we used miles, everything from hotel, food, shopping and taxes were dirt cheap. A fine dinner that would cost you $200-300 in the States per couple will cost just $70!
GET DOWN TO BUENOS AIRES!
And just a quick note, if one is to go all that way, be sure to visit Mendoza as well as Iguazu Falls.
22.
urbantravelgirl | March 31, 2011 at 7:06 am
Buenos dias again, S –
So you have discovered the FABULOUSNESS of Buenos Aires, one of my absolute favorite cities in the world (after Paris and Rome, of course). AMAZING how underrated this city is — especially by Americans! (Maybe everyone’s afraid of the 11-hour flight from North America — but that’s actually one thing I love best about it!)
Hopefully more of us UrbanTravelGirls and our families and friends will get ourselves way south in South America and discover what a gem this city is — and what a jewel the country of Argentina is. Can’t wait to hear about your return trip, as I’m SURE there’s one in your future!
Buen viaje,
Maureen
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