Planning an international getaway is (more than) half the fun

Ahhh... can't get back to the lovely French Riviera town of Villefranche-sur-Mer next week. Planning my return to this charming place has been a pleasant trip in itself!
Ahhh... can't get back to the lovely French Riviera town of Villefranche-sur-Mer next week. Planning my return to this charming place has been a pleasant trip in itself!
Does this look serene, or WHAT? I'll have a view like this out the window of my Riviera Experience flat in Villefranche before I know it....
Does this look serene, or WHAT? I'll have a view like this out the window of my Riviera Experience flat in Villefranche before I know it....

For some international travelers, NOTHING compares to the moment of arrival, when they touch down in a new place and are ready to check out the scene. Others love arriving back HOME, posting their photos on Facebook and Flickr, sharing their travel memories with family and friends. But for me, a pseudo-obsessive Type A, what I love most about travel is the PLANNING that goes into crafting a trip.

Take my journey to Europe early next week. A wonderfully thoughtful friend in the south of France owns several beautifully furnished Riviera Experience vacation rental apartments and had a vacancy in one that overlooks the breathtaking Bay of Villefranche. During an e-mail exchange, she invited me to come for a visit. I thought her offer was far too generous and started to decline, but finally graciously accepted, as I’d LOVE to see her and return to one of the most gorgeous places on earth. And for me, a planner to my heart, that’s where the fun begins!

Because I’ve visited to the Côte d’Azur town of Villefranche-sur-Mer twice before—including a solo trip that rang in my 40th birthday—I know how to get there from the nearby Nice airport. I know my way around Vieux Nice (Old Nice) and how to get to glitzy, jet-set Monaco. But there’s still so much to do and see on the French Riviera and beyond. My head is nearly swimming with the possibilities. Hang out inside the adorable studio apartment or in its private garden and write? Grab my shades and camera and stroll nearby towns? Or merely open the seaside window and nap to my heart’s content?

But since I’m going to be this close to Italy—less than an hour from the border, in fact—could I dare not set foot in bella Italia? And where to go? I STILL have yet to make it to Emilia-Romagna, the region many Italians admit has the best cuisine in the country. Should I make a stop in Tuscany, to stop in Florence where I lived for too short a time? Or head way south to Rome, the only city that rivals Paris for my undying affection, and visit my many friends there? Eventually, Rome won out, although I’ll only be there for three short days—not nearly enough time to spend leisurely catching up with folks. But three days are better than none.

For me, NO trip to Rome is complete without a swing past the Colosseum. No matter how often I see it, I never cease being amazed.
For me, NO trip to Rome is complete without a swing past the Colosseum. No matter how often I see it, I never cease being amazed.

As I’ve been planning this south of France-to-Rome getaway for the past several weeks, many questions have crossed my mind: Head to Paris—my favorite city in the world—for a few days after leaving Villefranche? Take an overnight train and take in the romance of the rails on my way to Rome? Since I can’t get directly to Rome from Villefranche on the train, hit the road in a France rental car and pick up that overnight train in Dijon? Decisions, decisions!! (I finally decided to just take an hour flight to Rome to conserve my precious few vacation days… but you can bet I’ll be taking that overnight Artesia train on my next trip from France to Italy!)

I’d love to hear from you UrbanTravelGirls: What’s the best part of a holiday for you—the planning, the actual vacationing or the reminiscing? Perhaps I’ll become a convert!

Turning a trip abroad into a ‘permanent vacation’

Inspired partly by fabulous vacations to Italy, former American expat Kelly Carter (and her famous long-haired Chihuahua Lucy) moved to Positano on the Amalfi Coast. Kelly's now writing about her two-year Italian adventure in "Bellini for One."
Inspired partly by fabulous vacations to Italy, former American expat Kelly Carter (and her famous long-haired Chihuahua Lucy) moved to Positano on the Amalfi Coast. Kelly's now writing about her two-year Italian adventure in "Bellini for One."
Life as an expat wouldn't be so bad in lovely Mendoza, Argentina. Here I am trying it out during my recent trip, sipping a Gancia Batido (a classic Argentine cocktail) on the terrace of the Park Hyatt Mendoza.
Life as an expat wouldn't be so bad in lovely Mendoza, Argentina. Here I am trying it out during my recent trip, sipping a Gancia Batido (a classic Argentine cocktail) on the terrace of the Park Hyatt Mendoza.
British expat author Peter Mayle introduced millions to the "good life" in Provence through his best-selling books.
British expat author Peter Mayle introduced millions to the "good life" in Provence through his best-selling books.

We’ve all read books and watched films about folks (often single women, it seems) who travel to some exotic locale in search of self-discovery, fall in love with this new place, and decide to trade in their not-quite-right lives at home for a new one overseas. You UrbanTravelGirls know the 2003 film “Under the Tuscan Sun” motivated me to move to storybook-perfect Florence, Italy. The Frances Mayes book that inspired the film, Under the Tuscan Sun, has been translated into dozens of languages and prompted countless reader pilgrimages to Mayes’ adopted Tuscan hometown of Cortona.

 Author Peter Mayle jump-started the modern expat-exchanges-hectic-urban-life-for-adventure-abroad trend with A Year in Provence, a book that when became an international best-seller when first published in 1989. In it, Mayle chronicled his life as a British expatriate in Ménerbes, a town in this gorgeous part of southern France. This former London ad executive and his wife traveled to Provence on vacation but eventually took the plunge, relocating completely from the UK to France. And once his books caught fire and made him rich—no doubt inspiring legions of folks with visions of living abroad—Mayle became the patron saint of reinventing oneself in a foreign land.

But when does an UrbanTravelGirl decide that a mere vacation doesn’t do it, that she’d rather pull up stakes and actually MOVE to another country and build a life for herself there instead of here (wherever that happens to be)?

My family and friends always laugh at me because whenever I return from a particularly good vacation (as mine generally tend to be), I share the same refrain: “I think I could live there!” Those of you who’ve listened to me wax poetic about Buenos Aires know I’ve thought it and said it, as I tend to travel to places that fascinate me and hold some special allure. And because I tend to rent apartments when I go abroad, I purposely immerse myself in the culture to get a real sense of daily life.

And, if the place grows on me—as Montreal (where I’d planned to move if the 2008 U.S. presidential election had turned out differently), Villefranche-sur-Mer on the French Riviera, and Buenos Aires did—then I entertain myself with visions of, “What if I actually MOVED here someday?” We all know it’s only a matter of time before I pull up stakes and seek an exciting new life—AGAIN!—outside the United States.

I’m not just inspired by books written by now-wealthy authors. I get it from real-life sistagirls, such as my good friend and fellow freelance journalist Kelly Carter, whose travels to Italy prompted HER move to Florence and Positano—AND who’s writing about it in an upcoming memoir appropriately named Bellini for One. And just yesterday, my Italophile friend Sharon Sanders who knows how I love Argentina sent me a Wall Street Journal article about a California couple who, after visiting the lovely wine-producing province of Mendoza, decided to buy a vineyard, building both a business and a fascinating new life.

But at the end of the day, visions of life in some fabulous villa (accompanied of course by some gorgeous local man with a heart-melting foreign accent) meet reality. Most of us aren’t independently wealthy (and if you are, most countries want you to PROVE it before they let you stay), so we need to figure out how we’ll make a living. But that doesn’t mean we can’t turn a great trip into a real life abroad.

For example, when I visited Montreal back in October 2008 with serious thoughts about moving there, I picked up brochures on immigrating to Canada (which actually seemed to be welcoming foreigners, as opposed to its neighbor to the south). Eventually, I might have looked into obtaining a working vacation visa that would let me “try out” my new country while still (legally) earning money. And if I’d decided to stay permanently, I might have sought out a Canadian immigration lawyer who specialized in helping Americans seeking a new life in their nation. Of course, there’s no ONE way to make such a life-changing move—and if you’re motivated enough to go, the Universe will meet you more than halfway.

So tell us, ladies—if YOU’RE one of those who moved abroad because you fell in love with your current home on your travels, what made you take the plunge?

Or if you’re one of us dreamers, what foreign country tugs at your heartstrings and why?

Nothing like a little fantasy to make life sweeter, yes?

Doing the Argentine ‘wine thing’ in lovely Mendoza

Driving up to the gorgeous Club Tapiz in the Mendoza province is a lovely experience in itself. And staying at this working vineyard is a treat beyond words.
Driving up to the gorgeous Club Tapiz in the Mendoza province is a lovely experience in itself. And staying at this working vineyard is a treat beyond words.
Vineyards like these that supply Tapiz and Zolo wines are seemingly everywhere in the lovely province of Mendoza.
Vineyards like these that supply Tapiz and Zolo wines (the latter are sold in the United States) re seemingly everywhere in the lovely province of Mendoza.
Ahhh... the good life, Mendoza style. The outdoor pool at Club Tapiz features a backdrop of lush vineyards. Who'd want to go home after this?
Ahhh... the good life, Mendoza style. The outdoor pool at Club Tapiz features a backdrop of lush vineyards. Who'd want to go home after this?

I’ve already declared my blind love for Buenos Aires, but there’s another fabulous part of Argentina that’s a must-see: the gorgeous wine-producing province of Mendoza. Located in the north-western part of this massive South American country, Mendoza’s most famous export is Malbec, a medium-to-full-bodied red wine that’s a perfect complement to Argentina’s legendary beef. And while the Malbec grape originated in southern France, it’s certainly got strong Argentine roots today.

While in Mendoza earlier this month, I was the guest of Club Tapiz, an incredibly gorgeous vineyard/winery/restaurant/hotel in the town of Maipú. With seven gorgeous rooms—many of which look out onto the property’s back garden and swimming pool—Club Tapiz is the perfect destination for oenophiles, or anyone else interested in the art of living and dining well. Its award-winning, 19th century restored estate is surrounded by 22 acres of vineyards—making its Tapiz and Zolo wines taste that much better with artful cuisine from its Terruños Restaurant. Housed right on the property, this elegant dining space provided me with one of the most succulent steaks I’ve ever had. And with trees right on the property, the restaurant served Tapiz olive oil alongside it—TRUE nectar of the gods, an extra-virgin oil so deliciously fruity I almost wanted to pour it into a wine glass and drink it.

But while I was off galavanting in the Argentine wine country, I realized that I missed a November event that’s become a personal favorite of mine: the release of Beaujolais Nouveau, a wonderfully light and fruity red wine which comes from a region of France just north of gastronomically blessed Lyon. This isn’t an expensive wine (most bottles are under $20), or one that’s given much love by connoisseurs—but that doesn’t keep Beaujolais from being beloved by wine drinkers all over the world. Under mandate of French law, Beaujolais Nouveau cannot officially be released until the third Thursday of November. And if I’d been home in Chicago, I would have celebrated with the French-American Chamber of Commerce of Chicago at its annual “Passport to France” event celebrating Beaujolais Nouveau’s uncorking.

Since I’d love to check out as many wine-producing regions of the world as possible, perhaps next year I’ll plan to travel to the Beaujolais region myself. If I’m feeling particularly adventurous, perhaps I’ll check out car rentals in France. Otherwise, I’d better hook up with a wine tour that specializes in the region—or pre-arrange transportation from one vineyard to another, as I was fortunate enough to have provided by my hosts in Mendoza.

Two and a half days weren’t NEARLY enough to sample the joys of this gorgeous wine region. On my next trip to Buenos Aires—and we all know there WILL be a next one, and hopefully by next spring—you can believe I’ll be booking longer reservations in Mendoza. And if I’m lucky, I’ll time my trip perfectly enough to help with the harvest at Club Tapiz or another nearby vineyard. Now THAT’S work I won’t mind doing!

How do I love thee, Buenos Aires? Let me count the ways….

Ahhh... finally relaxed! Here I am in Buenos Aires, sitting outside an historic cafe on the bustling Avenida Santa Fe.
Ahhh... finally relaxed! Here I am, sitting outside an historic cafe on the bustling Avenida Santa Fe.
Portenos, as Buenos Aires residents are called, have mastered the civilized art of the chill-out. Here's a look outside Freddo, a popular gelateria in the hip and gentrified Puerto Madero barrio, which runs along the river.
Portenos, as Buenos Aires residents are called, have mastered the civilized art of the chill-out. Here's a look outside Freddo, a popular gelateria in the hip and gentrified Puerto Madero barrio, which runs along the river. Converted lofts house restaurants, bars and offices in this district.
Here's a view down Avenida Coronel Diaz, which separates the super-chic Recoleta and trendy Palermo districts. Check out the architecture. Doesn't it look like a boulevard in Paris?
Here's a view down Avenida Coronel Diaz, which separates the super-chic Recoleta and trendy Palermo districts. Check out the architecture. Doesn't it look like a boulevard in Paris?

I’m in love—and it has nothing to do with a man.

You know how you feel when you’re in the early throes of a new romance? All you want to do is think about that gorgeous guy, how great he smelled, what he said, when you’ll see him again. And you want to TALK about it. All the time, to anyone who will listen.

Well, that’s how I feel about Buenos Aires, the charming and seductive Argentine city where I spent the better part of the past two weeks. In theory, a city can’t hug you back—but this one sure felt like it did. As you UrbanTravelGirls know, I’m a huge Paris lover—but I am SO ready to cheat with BA. Even when folks ask me, “What did you like so much about it?”, I find it hard to put into words. Some places just seem to embrace you, to make you feel like you’ve come home to somewhere you never knew you left.

I’m one of those people who is NEVER more comfortable than when she’s out of her element. I don’t tend to seek out trips that will take me to places where folks look just like me, or talk like me—or even THINK like me. I travel in search of differences, which I heartily embrace. For me, the joy of international travel comes from its challenges, from stretching boundaries and testing my comfort zones.

Rather than signing up for one-stop-shop travel packages that would provide my every need, I instead chose to rent a one-bedroom apartment smack in the middle of Buenos Aires’ Palermo barrio – one of the city’s trendiest and most convenient. Rather than being able to dial up hotel room service, I was forced to use my often-broken Spanish at the supermercado and the corner fiamberia (sandwich shop), which also sold incredible cheeses, chorizos and jamón Serrano, a melt-in-your-mouth cured ham. Instead of spending lovely spring days hanging out at the rooftop swimming pool of my apartment building, I took to the streets, wandering around on foot and seeing what there was to see.

But I did it—and Buenos Aires rewarded me with an incredible two weeks. I’ll obviously be sharing more about my South American getaway (which also included short stays in Santiago, Chile, and Colonia, Uruguay) in later posts, but for now, a few of the things I loved most about BA:

  • The city never seems to sleep—and neither do I! Just like their Spanish cousins across the sea, the porteños—as Buenos Aires residents are called—love to stay out late. Eating, dancing, talking, hanging out. It all happens WAY after dark. Go to a restaurant before 10 and unless it’s in a hotel, there probably won’t be many, if any, locals there. As many of you know, I keep vampire hours even when I’m at home, so napping and going out for a late dinner or drink was JUST what the doctor ordered.
  • It’s a carnivore paradise. I don’t know how vegetarians and vegans make it in a place like BA. But Argentina itself probably has more cows than people—hence, its well-deserved fame on the leather and beef front. And not only are there steaks on nearly every menu and parillas, or traditional Argentine steakhouses, on nearly every corner, it’s DELICIOUS. And for Americans, it’s embarrassingly inexpensive. Even at a well-known, top-notch BA steak joint, you MIGHT pay the equivalent of $10.50 for an incredibly tender and high-quality piece of meat. One thing’s for sure. Eating like this—accompanied by one of Argentina’s amazing and equally affordable Malbecs or Cabernet—can become a cherished habit REAL quick!
  • Parisian feel, Italian vibe, Latin lifestyle. BA’s often called the “Paris of South America,” and it’s easy to see why. Its architecture—especially in the poshest districts—looks like a replica of what you see on Parisian boulevards. Because many of its residents have Italian roots and surnames, there’s definitely that la dolce vita “sweet life” vibe in the air. And because these folks ARE Latin, that wonderfully laid-back attitude tends to permeate everything. Even business meetings feel far more relaxed than they do in the States—and even a work lunch likely will be enjoyed with a glass of vino tinto. No wonder I’m hooked!
  • Sisters are like superstars. OK, let’s be real: It’s pretty near IMPOSSIBLE not to adore a place where the men are showing you much love, all day long. Black folks in general are quite rare in most parts of Argentina—and black women even more so. So when you’re walking down the street, in a restaurant, in a supermercado—people look. And these gorgeous, dark -haired Latin men appreciate you in all your mocha-skinned glory. Before leaving for Argentina, I traded e-mails with Jennifer Poe, a 20-something sister who moved herself to Buenos Aires a few years ago and had the time of her life! She wrote about her experience—and interactions with porteño guys—in her engaging, fun-to-read blog, Hola Morocha!!!!! A black girl’s guide to Buenos Aires. (Can’t WAIT to read the book Jen’s writing based on her blog and her time in South America!) She told me that “hands down” the most exhilarating thing about being a black woman in BA “was the love and attention from men. I felt like a princess or queen! Like a rare diamond that everyone was after!” Alright, chicas—when was the last time you felt like THAT?

So tell me—have any of you UrbanTravelGirls made your way to BA? And what was your experience like? Do share!

UrbanTravelGirl talks about being a sister living abroad on “The Traveling Eye” radio show

Standing in front of Rome's famed Trevi Fountain is my brother-in-law Dave and fellow former Italian expat friend and now-best-selling New York Times author Kelly E. Carter. This February 2005 photo is from my living-in-Italy days, during Dave's and my sister Monetta's visit.
Standing in front of Rome's famed Trevi Fountain is my brother-in-law Dave and fellow former Italian expat friend and now-best-selling New York Times author Kelly E. Carter. This February 2005 photo is from my living-in-Italy days, during Dave's and my sister Monetta's visit.

There’s nothing like reliving old memories—especially those that have shaped you into the person you are today. And last week, thanks to a fabulous Chicago-based Travel radio show, I got the chance to reminisce about my sistagirl-living-abroad-in-Italy experience from five years ago!

The hour-long show, which airs from 11 a.m.-noon U.S. Central time on Fridays, is called The Traveling Eye, and its programming is especially designed to appeal to upscale African-American consumers and travelers. It’s hosted by two dynamic sisters: my Delta Sigma Theta Sorority, Inc., soror and Chicago radio legend Bonnie DeShong and travel specialist and Advantage International President and Founder Ja’Vonne Harley. Listen to THEIR show and before it’s over, you’ll want to be online or on the phone booking some fabulous getaway. And some advertisers don’t believe that black folks travel—and travel in style? Along with WHUR-FM in Washington, D.C., Bonnie and Ja’Vonne are leading a tour of nearly 100 folks to Egypt and Dubai in February—and this nearly two-week trip is SOLD OUT!

During last week’s show, Bonnie and fill-in host Gene Harley asked me and a super-bad American expat sister named Tiffany Zunker who’s lived abroad for half her life to share thoughts on why we first got interested in living abroad. (In my case, listening to tales from my world-traveling aunt Sophenia and visiting my friend Javan on a U.S. Army base in Germany during grad school.) What I felt when I first stepped off the plane in Florence, Italy, as a new resident and not just a tourist. (Totally excited and ready for the adventure!) Whether I ever felt lonely. (Now that’s hard to do in Italy unless you turn yourself into a recluse, as family-oriented Italians will embrace you and often treat you like an extended member of the family!)

How I dealt with my hair (got my two-strand twists hooked up regularly in Florence by a sweet Nigerian stylist in the back of her brother’s barber shop) and (far more of it in Florence than in the States, that’s for sure!). As I joked, sisters often head to Italy believing the adage that “Italian men LOVE them some black women!” The reality is that Italian men adore women period—which is a way-welcoming thing to black women, who don’t always feel celebrated in American culture.

Want to hear the whole show? Click here! (Skip the lead-in newscast and start listening at about 3:15.)

Dishing about my fabulous adventure made me homesick for Italy, and longing for another live-abroad experience. You know me—have passport, will travel!

If you want to catch TODAY’s “Traveling Eye,” listen to it live on Fridays from 11 a.m.-noon U.S. Central time on the WVON/1690 AM The Talk of Chicago” website and click the flashing “Listen Live” icon.